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Tartan - Wikipedia. Soldiers from a Highland Regiment circa 1. The private (on the left) is wearing a belted plaid. Tartan (Scottish Gaelic: breacan[ˈbɾʲɛxkən]) is a pattern consisting of criss- crossed horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colours. Tartans originated in woven wool, but now they are made in many other materials. Tartan is particularly associated with Scotland.

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Scottish kilts almost always have tartan patterns. Tartan is often called plaid in North America, but in Scotland, a plaid is a tartan cloth slung over the shoulder as a kilt accessory, or a plain ordinary blanket such as one would have on a bed. Tartan is made with alternating bands of coloured (pre- dyed) threads woven as both warp and weft at right angles to each other. The weft is woven in a simple twill, two over—two under the warp, advancing one thread at each pass.

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This forms visible diagonal lines where different colours cross, which give the appearance of new colours blended from the original ones. The resulting blocks of colour repeat vertically and horizontally in a distinctive pattern of squares and lines known as a sett. The Dress Act of 1. Gaelic culture. When the law was repealed in 1. Highland dress, but was adopted instead as the symbolic national dress of Scotland. Until the middle of the nineteenth century, the highland tartans were only associated with either regions or districts, rather than any specific Scottish clan. This was because like other materials, tartan designs were produced by local weavers for local tastes and would usually only use the natural dyes available in that area, as chemical dye production was non- existent and transportation of other dye materials across long distances was prohibitively expensive.

The patterns were simply different regional checked- cloth patterns, chosen by the wearer's preference—in the same way as people nowadays choose what colours and patterns they like in their clothing, without particular reference to propriety. It was not until the mid- nineteenth century that many patterns were created and artificially associated with Scottish clans, families, or institutions who were (or wished to be seen as) associated in some way with a Scottish heritage.[2] The Victorians' penchant for ordered taxonomy and the new chemical dyes then available meant that the idea of specific patterns of bright colours, or "dress" tartans, could be created and applied to a faux- nostalgic view of Scottish history. Today tartan is no longer limited to textiles, but is used on non- woven mediums, such as paper, plastics, packaging, and wall coverings.[3]Etymology and terminology[edit]The English word "tartan" is most likely derived from the Frenchtartarin meaning "Tartar cloth".[4] It has also been suggested that "tartan" may be derived from modern Scottish Gaelictarsainn,[5] meaning "across". Today "tartan" usually refers to coloured patterns, though originally a tartan did not have to be made up of any pattern at all.

As late as the 1. Patterned cloth from the Gaelic- speaking Scottish Highlands was called breacan, meaning many colours. Over time the meanings of tartan and breacan were combined to describe certain type of pattern on a certain type of cloth. The pattern of a tartan is called a sett. The sett is made up of a series of woven threads which cross at right angles.[6]Today tartan is generally used to describe the pattern, not limited to textiles.[6] In North America the term plaid is commonly used to describe tartan.[7] The word plaid, derived from the Scottish Gaelic plaide, meaning "blanket",[8] was first used of any rectangular garment, sometimes made up of tartan, particularly that which preceded the modern kilt (see: belted plaid).

In time, plaid was used to describe blankets themselves.[7]Construction[edit]. Diagram C, the tartan. The combining of the warp and weft. Each thread in the warp crosses each thread in the weft at right angles.

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Where a thread in the warp crosses a thread of the same colour in the weft they produce a solid colour on the tartan, while a thread crossing another of a different colour produces an equal mixture of the two colours. Thus, a set of two base colours produces three different colours including one mixture. The total number of colours, including mixtures, increases quadratically with the number of base colours so a sett of six base colours produces fifteen mixtures and a total of twenty- one different colours. This means that the more stripes and colours used, the more blurred and subdued the tartan's pattern becomes.[6][9]The sequence of threads, known as the sett, starts at an edge and either repeats or reverses on what are called pivot points. In diagram A, the sett reverses at the first pivot, then repeats, then reverses at the next pivot, and will carry on in this manner horizontally. In diagram B, the sett reverses and repeats in the same way as the warp, and also carries on in the same manner vertically.

The diagrams left illustrate the construction of a "symmetrical" tartan. However, on an "asymmetrical" tartan, the sett does not reverse at the pivots, it just repeats at the pivots. Also, some tartans (very few) do not have exactly the same sett for the warp and weft. This means the warp and weft will have alternate thread counts. Tartan is recorded by counting the threads of each colour that appear in the sett.[note 1] The thread count not only describes the width of the stripes on a sett, but also the colours used. For example, the thread count "K4 R2.

K2. 4 Y4" corresponds to 4 black threads, 2. The first and last threads of the thread count are the pivot points.[3] Though thread counts are indeed quite specific, they can be modified in certain circumstances, depending on the desired size of the tartan. For example, the sett of a tartan (about 6 inches) may be too large to fit upon the face of a necktie. In this case the thread count has to be reduced in proportion (about 3 inches).[1. Colour: shades and meaning[edit]. The colour of the Clan Mac. Leod tartan was described in a 1.

Sir Thomas Dick Lauder to Sir Walter Scott; "Mac. Leod (of Dunvegan) has got a sketch of this splendid tartan, three black stryps upon ain yellow fylde". The shades of colour in tartan can be altered to produce variations of the same tartan. Watch Undercover Bridesmaid Hindi Full Movie. The resulting variations are termed: modern, ancient, and muted. These terms refer to colour only.

Modern represents a tartan that is coloured using chemical dye, as opposed to natural dye. In the mid- 1. 9th century natural dyes began to be replaced by chemical dyes which were easier to use and were more economic for the booming tartan industry. Chemical dyes tended to produce a very strong, dark colour compared to the natural dyes. In modern colours, setts made up of blue, black and green tend to be obscured. Ancient refers to a lighter shade of tartan.

These shades are meant to represent the colours that would result from fabric aging over time. Muted refers to tartan which is shade between modern and ancient. This type of tartan is very modern, dating only from the early 1. This shade is said to be the closest match to the shades attained by natural dyes used before the mid- 1. The idea that the various colours used in tartan have a specific meaning is purely a modern one. One such myth is that red tartans were "battle tartans", designed so they would not show blood.

It is only recently created tartans, such as Canadian provincial and territorial tartans (beginning 1. US state tartans (beginning 1. For example, the colour green sometimes symbolises prairies or forests, blue can symbolise lakes and rivers, and the colour yellow is sometimes used to symbolise various crops.[1. History[edit]Origins[edit]. The earliest image of Scottish soldiers wearing tartan, from a woodcut c. 1. Today tartan is mostly associated with Scotland; however, the earliest evidence of tartan is found far afield from the British Isles. According to the textile historian E. J. W.